Squalane

Squalane is a saturated hydrocarbon closely related to squalene, a lipid the body produces and which forms a natural component of human sebum.

Squalane and squalene

Squalene, with an e, is unsaturated and unstable. It oxidises readily on exposure to air, which makes it unsuitable for formulation. Hydrogenating it produces squalane, with an a, which is fully saturated and stable for years.

The single letter separates an ingredient that goes rancid from one that does not.

How it works

Because squalene is already present in sebum, squalane is highly compatible with skin lipids and spreads readily without a heavy or greasy feel. It works as an emollient, filling the spaces between corneocytes to smooth the surface, and reduces water loss without the occlusive weight of a mineral oil or heavy butter.

Levels of squalene in sebum decline with age, which is part of why skin tends to feel drier over time.

Source

Squalane was historically obtained from shark liver oil. Most cosmetic squalane is now derived from olives or produced by sugarcane fermentation, though shark-derived material remains in use in parts of the industry. Plant and fermentation-derived squalane are chemically identical to each other.