Calmwise Serum

Seven ingredients, no water

Calmwise Serum is deliberately short: jojoba oil, two light volatile silicones, a fractionated coconut triglyceride, vitamin E, teprenone and sage. No water means no preservative system, no emulsifier and nothing for reactive skin to object to; the silicones evaporate, leaving a thin breathable film of jojoba and the two actives.

Teprenone and sage

Teprenone is a terpene originally studied in gastric medicine for protecting cell membranes, and in skin it is used to reduce the reactivity of blood vessels and nerve endings that produce flushing, with published work showing reduced redness and improved barrier over weeks of use. Sage extract adds an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant note. Vitamin E keeps the oils fresh and supports the barrier.

The texture

A dry, silky oil that absorbs fast and leaves no greasiness, so it sits under moisturiser, Colour Correct and SPF without pilling.

The fit

The treatment step of the Calmwise routine: this serum calms the reactivity over time, Calmwise Colour Correct hides and soothes the redness in the meantime.

Rosacea-prone, flush-prone and reactive skin; skin that stings with water-based serums and most actives; post-procedure redness once the skin is closed; and anyone paring a routine back to what sensitive skin will tolerate.

Worth knowing

Fragrance-free, water-free, preservative-free. An oil-serum, so a few drops is the dose. Suitable in pregnancy. Allow six to eight weeks of twice-daily use to judge the effect on flushing.

Morning and evening on cleansed, dry skin: three to four drops warmed between the fingertips and pressed over the face, concentrating on the cheeks and nose. Follow with moisturiser or Calmwise Colour Correct, and SPF in the morning.

Can be mixed into moisturiser on very dry days.

Use alongside

Under Calmwise Colour Correct in the morning and under Hydr8 B5 or Total Moisture at night. Pause leave-on acids and strong retinoids while skin is flushing; reintroduce one at a time once it settles.