Collagen peptides

Marine Collagen

INCI name Hydrolysed Marine Collagen
Function Collagen peptides
Pregnancy Speak to your doctor
UV sensitivity Not photosensitising

Marine collagen is collagen extracted from fish, most commonly from skin and scales, and broken down into shorter peptide chains through hydrolysis. It is taken orally rather than applied, which makes it a different proposition from everything else in this library.

What collagen is

The most abundant protein in the body and the principal structural component of skin, forming a network in the dermis that gives skin its firmness and resilience. Production declines from around the mid-twenties onward, and UV exposure accelerates the loss.

The mechanism, stated plainly

Ingested collagen is a protein and is digested like any other. It does not travel intact to your skin and become collagen there. Anyone claiming otherwise is describing something that does not happen.

The proposed mechanism is more specific and more interesting. Digestion breaks collagen into amino acids and short peptides, and a fraction of those peptides appear to survive intact and enter circulation. Specific dipeptides and tripeptides, particularly prolyl-hydroxyproline and hydroxyprolyl-glycine, have been detected in blood after ingestion.

These are proposed to act as signals to fibroblasts, prompting collagen production, rather than functioning simply as raw material. That is the claim worth examining, and it is different from the idea that eating collagen gives you collagen.

Molecular weight

Hydrolysis produces peptide chains across a range of sizes, expressed as an average in daltons.

Native collagen runs to around 300,000 daltons. Ordinary hydrolysed collagen typically sits between 3,000 and 5,000. Lower-weight preparations reach 2,000 or below.

The argument for lower weight is that smaller peptides cross the intestinal wall more readily. There is reasonable support for this, and it is the mechanism behind the bioavailability claims across the category.

Two caveats. Molecular weight is an average across a distribution rather than a single value, so two products quoting the same figure can differ in composition. And most brands do not publish a number at all, which makes "low molecular weight" as a standalone phrase close to meaningless.

Marine versus bovine

Marine collagen is predominantly type I, the type most abundant in skin. Bovine collagen contains types I and III. Marine peptides are also generally smaller.

Both are cited as reasons marine collagen is more bioavailable, and the reasoning is sound. Head-to-head comparisons in humans are scarcer than the marketing suggests.

The evidence

A reasonable number of randomised controlled trials report improvements in skin hydration and elasticity with daily collagen peptide supplementation, generally over eight to twelve weeks.

Two things temper that. Much of the research is funded by collagen manufacturers, which is normal in nutrition research rather than disqualifying but worth knowing. And outcome measures vary considerably between studies, which makes them difficult to compare.

The field is more plausible than it was a decade ago and less settled than the category implies.

Vitamin C is not optional

Vitamin C is an essential cofactor for prolyl and lysyl hydroxylase, the enzymes that stabilise collagen during synthesis. Without adequate vitamin C, collagen cannot form properly regardless of how much protein is available. This is why collagen supplements frequently include it.

Who should avoid it

Anyone with a fish allergy. Marine collagen is derived from fish and is not suitable for vegetarians or vegans.

Speak to your doctor before starting any supplement, particularly during pregnancy or breastfeeding, if you take regular medication, or if you have a medical condition.

What it does not do

No oral supplement replaces daily sun protection. UV exposure is the largest single driver of collagen breakdown in skin, and nothing taken by mouth offsets it.