Anti-glycation dipeptide

Carnosine

INCI name Carnosine
Function Anti-glycation dipeptide
Pregnancy Suitable
UV sensitivity Not photosensitising

Carnosine is a dipeptide — just two amino acids, beta-alanine and histidine — that the body concentrates in muscle and brain tissue, where it buffers acid and mops up reactive molecules. Skincare borrowed it for a specific talent: interfering with glycation.

The glycation problem

Sugars in tissue react slowly and permanently with proteins, forming advanced glycation end-products — AGEs, an unusually apt acronym. When collagen and elastin are glycated they stiffen, yellow and resist the skin’s remodelling machinery: one of the quieter, less marketed drivers of visible ageing, and one that antioxidants alone do not address.

How carnosine works

It acts as a sacrificial target — the sugar chemistry attacks carnosine instead of the collagen it would otherwise cross-link — and it chelates the metal ions that accelerate both glycation and radical formation. Laboratory and early clinical work has associated topical carnosine with slower AGE accumulation and better elastic quality of skin proteins.

In formulation

Appears in peptide serums and pro-ageing creams, typically alongside signal peptides — the pairing is logical: peptides encourage new collagen, carnosine helps protect what exists. Water-soluble, exceptionally well tolerated, non-photosensitising, suitable in pregnancy.