Antioxidant

Lipoic Acid (R)

INCI name Thioctic Acid
Function Antioxidant
Pregnancy Suitable
UV sensitivity Not photosensitising

Alpha-lipoic acid is a molecule the body makes in small amounts for energy metabolism, nicknamed the ‘universal antioxidant’ for a rare property: it works in both the water and oil phases of skin. The R form used here is the naturally occurring enantiomer.

How it works

Research associates topical lipoic acid with broad radical neutralisation and with regenerating other spent antioxidants — including vitamins C and E and glutathione — effectively recharging the wider network rather than only spending itself.

Tolerability

Can produce brief warmth or tingling at higher levels; at the levels used around the eyes it is generally well tolerated. Not photosensitising.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding

No established concerns at topical cosmetic levels; conventionally considered suitable.