Visible-light photoprotection support

Melanin (Topical)

INCI name Melanin
Function Visible-light photoprotection support
Pregnancy Suitable
UV sensitivity Not photosensitising

Melanin is the pigment your own melanocytes make — biology’s original sunscreen, evolved precisely to absorb radiation before it reaches DNA. A handful of brands, ZO Skin Health most prominently, add fractionated melanin to topical formulas to borrow that talent at the surface.

How it works

Melanin is an unusually broad absorber: rather than the narrow peaks of engineered UV filters, it soaks up energy across ultraviolet and well into the visible spectrum — including the blue, high-energy visible light that research increasingly links to pigment provocation and oxidative stress in skin. A film of melanin on the surface behaves as a supplementary shield in exactly the range where most sunscreens thin out, and it quenches free radicals as it absorbs.

The honest sizing

Topical melanin is a supporting player, not a rated filter: it contributes no tested SPF number of its own, and the published evidence for cosmetic use is modest beside the deep literature on the body’s native pigment. Its best case is in tinted, mineral-filter formulas — melanin plus iron oxides plus zinc oxide covering UV and visible light together — which is precisely the company it usually keeps.

In formulation

Found in premium sunscreens and primers, lending a characteristic warm tint that doubles as cosmetic evening. Inert, non-sensitising, non-photosensitising — it is, after all, what skin makes for itself.