Brightening agent

Kojic Acid

INCI name Kojic Acid
Function Brightening agent
Pregnancy Speak to your doctor
UV sensitivity Not photosensitising

A molecule produced by fungi during fermentation, used in skincare for its effect on the look of uneven pigmentation.

How it works

Research associates kojic acid with inhibition of tyrosinase, the enzyme that catalyses melanin production. Applied consistently, that is the basis of its association with a more even-looking skin tone. It is the free-acid form — more active, and somewhat less stable, than its ester kojic dipalmitate.

Sensitivity

Can sting on compromised skin, and sensitisation with long continuous use is reported occasionally; cycled use and patch testing are sensible.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding

Evidence is limited; at cosmetic levels the conventional advice is to check with your doctor.