Chelator and mild exfoliant

Phytic Acid

INCI name Phytic Acid
Function Chelator and mild exfoliant
Pregnancy No known concern
UV sensitivity Not photosensitising

Phytic acid is the principal phosphorus storage compound in plant seeds, found in grains, legumes and nuts. In nutrition it is often treated as an antinutrient because it binds minerals in the gut. In skincare, that same binding property is the point.

Chelation, which is the main job

Phytic acid binds metal ions, particularly iron and copper. Free metal ions catalyse the Fenton reaction, which generates hydroxyl radicals, among the most damaging free radicals in biology.

So phytic acid is not a conventional antioxidant. It does not neutralise radicals after they form. It removes the catalyst that would generate them. That is a different and complementary mechanism, which is why it is often formulated alongside vitamins C and E rather than instead of them.

The pigmentation angle

Tyrosinase, the enzyme that initiates melanin production, requires copper at its active site. By binding copper, phytic acid can reduce tyrosinase activity indirectly.

That is a genuinely different route from most brightening ingredients, which either inhibit the enzyme directly or interfere with pigment transfer.

Mild exfoliation

Phytic acid is a weak acid and provides gentle exfoliation, considerably milder than glycolic or lactic acid. It appears in formulations where some surface renewal is wanted without the irritation a stronger acid brings.

In formulation

Also used to stabilise products. By binding trace metals present in water and raw materials, it slows oxidation of the formula itself, which is why it sometimes appears at low levels in products where it is not marketed as an active.

Well tolerated, and one of the gentler acids available.