Complexion Clearing Masque

Sulfur, an old ingredient with a long record

Sulfur is one of the oldest substances in dermatology, in continuous use for skin complaints for centuries. Its mechanisms are several and none of them are subtle.

It has documented antibacterial activity, including against Cutibacterium acnes, the organism associated with congestion. It is keratolytic, softening and loosening the outer layer of skin, an effect that increases when combined with other agents. And it has a documented effect on sebum production.

At 10%, this is a high concentration by any measure. In several markets, sulfur at this level is regulated as an acne treatment rather than as a cosmetic.

The clays

Kaolin is a fine white clay, mild and absorbent. Bentonite is a swelling clay formed from volcanic ash, more absorbent than kaolin and carrying a negative surface charge, which is why it is described as drawing out debris.

Both work by physically absorbing surface oil into their structure as the masque dries. Silica adds to that absorbency.

The base

HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer is a polymer that helps the masque form an even film and absorb oil. Glycerin and caprylyl glycol are humectants, offsetting some of the drying the clays and sulfur cause.

Ethylene brassylate is a musk fragrance compound, present in part to moderate sulfur's characteristic smell.

Ultramarines is the blue colourant.

The smell

Worth being straightforward about. Sulfur has a distinctive odour, often compared to eggs, and no amount of fragrance entirely removes it. Most people who use sulfur products accept this. Some do not, and it is a reasonable reason to choose differently.

Oily and congestion-prone skin. Suitable for face, chest and back, which makes it useful for body congestion as well.

Not the right product if your skin is dry, sensitive or reactive. This is a high sulfur concentration in a drying clay base and it will not suit skin that is already compromised.

Consider carefully if you have a sulfa allergy. Sulfur and sulfa drugs are chemically unrelated and a sulfa allergy does not imply a sulfur reaction, but it is a common enough confusion that it is worth raising with your doctor rather than assuming either way.

Apply a thin layer to clean, dry skin, avoiding the eye area. Leave for 10 to 15 minutes, then remove thoroughly with warm water.

Once or twice weekly to begin with. Reduce to once weekly if dryness or peeling develops.

Follow with a moisturiser. Clay and sulfur together are drying by design.

Keep apart

Exfoliating acids on the same day. Sulfur is keratolytic in its own right and the combination increases irritation considerably.

Retinoids on the same evening.

Other clay or drying masques.

Use alongside

A hydrating serum and moisturiser afterwards, without exception.

Your usual routine on non-masque days.