Exfoliating Cleanser

This cleanser exfoliates by two independent routes, which is unusual in a single product and worth understanding before you decide how often to use it.

Physical exfoliation

Jojoba esters, cellulose and mannitol are suspended as fine particles that dislodge loose surface cells as you massage. Jojoba esters are a spherical, plant-derived bead that has largely replaced crushed shell and microplastic exfoliants, because the particles are round rather than jagged and do not create micro-tears.

Chemical exfoliation

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid. It is oil-soluble, so unlike glycolic or lactic acid it can move into the sebum within a pore rather than working only on the surface. That is why it appears in products aimed at congestion.

Ammonium lactate is the salt of lactic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid. It works on the surface, loosening the bonds between corneocytes so they shed more readily. Being buffered as a salt makes it gentler than free lactic acid at the same concentration.

Niacin and niacinamide, both present

These are related but not interchangeable, and having both is deliberate. Niacinamide is the amide form, well studied for barrier support and for its effect on the appearance of pigmentation. Niacin is nicotinic acid, which causes vasodilation, a transient warming or flushing sensation. Some formulations include it for that reason.

If you notice a brief flush after using this, that is the niacin.

The surfactant system

Sodium laureth sulfate is the primary cleansing agent, moderated by three amphoteric co-surfactants, cocamidopropyl betaine, disodium cocoamphodiacetate and cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine. Blending anionic with amphoteric surfactants is the standard way to reduce the harshness of a sulfate system while keeping the lather.

Fragrance and colour

This product is fragranced and contains a green colourant, chromium hydroxide green. Four fragrance components are declared separately on the pack: citronellol, hexyl cinnamal, limonene and linalool. These appear because they are recognised contact allergens and regulation requires declaration above a set threshold. If you have reacted to fragranced products before, this is relevant.

Skin concerned with congestion, rough texture and visible pores. Suits normal to oily skin.

Consider carefully if your skin is dry, sensitive or reactive, if you have rosacea, or if you have reacted to fragrance before. Two exfoliation mechanisms plus a sulfate surfactant plus fragrance is a lot for compromised skin. The Balancing Cleansing Emulsion is the gentler option in the range.

Massage a small amount onto damp face and neck, then rinse thoroughly.

On frequency. Because this exfoliates both physically and chemically, most skin does not want it daily. Two or three times a week is a sensible starting point, with a non-exfoliating cleanser on other days. Build up only if your skin is comfortable.

Avoid the eye area. Follow with SPF 30 or higher in the morning, as hydroxy acids increase sensitivity to UV.

Keep apart

When starting to use this product, other exfoliants on the same day, whether scrubs, acid toners or peel pads. You are already using two mechanisms.

Retinoids in the same session. Use them on alternate evenings rather than layering, particularly while you are still adjusting to either.

Use alongside

A hydrating serum and moisturiser afterwards. Exfoliation without replacement leaves the barrier worse off.

A broad-spectrum SPF the following morning, which is not optional when using hydroxy acids.