Blemish SOS

Three routes into a breakout

Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, so it follows sebum into the pore and loosens the plug; niacinamide, fourth on the label, calms the redness around it and slows oil production; and potassium azeloyl diglycinate, a gentle azelaic acid derivative, works on both the bacteria and the dark mark a spot leaves behind. Octadecenedioic acid adds a further brightening nudge for post-blemish pigment.

The delivery

A fast-drying gel with denatured alcohol and isopentyldiol so it sinks in and disappears, which is the point of a spot treatment you apply under makeup or at bedtime. Rosemary leaf oil is the antimicrobial note and the source of the fragrance allergens on the label.

The fit

Medik8's targeted spot gel: for the individual blemish, not the whole face.

Occasional and hormonal breakouts that need a direct hit; congestion-prone skin wanting something to use only where needed; and anyone whose routine already covers the rest of the face and just wants a spot fix.

Worth knowing

Advisory tier. Contains salicylic acid and denatured alcohol, so apply to the blemish only, not as an all-over treatment, and keep clear of broken skin. Rosemary oil with declared limonene and linalool, so patch test with a fragrance or essential-oil sensitivity. Pregnancy: leave-on salicylic acid, check with your clinician first. Not for aspirin allergy.

Morning and evening, or as needed: dab a small amount directly onto the blemish with a clean fingertip and let it dry. Do not rinse. Follow with moisturiser around, not over, the spot and SPF by day. Use alongside, not instead of, your usual routine.

Use alongside

Spot-apply after cleansing and before serums. Pairs with Press & Clear for congestion-prone skin and Hydr8 B5 to keep the rest of the face comfortable. Do not layer over a retinoid or another acid on the same spot the same night.