Retinol Brulee

A dual retinoid system

Retinol Brulee pairs retinol with retinyl palmitate. Skin converts both toward retinoic acid, the form retinoid receptors respond to, but at different rates: retinol converts in two steps, the palmitate ester in three. The staggered conversion spreads the retinoid effect out, which is part of why this formula suits skin newer to vitamin A.

What retinoids are associated with

Research associates retinoid receptor activity with changes in epidermal cell turnover and fibroblast activity, the basis of their reputation with fine lines, texture and tone.

The support act

Vitamin E, Canadian Willowherb and a chromanol antioxidant steady the formula, with Australian native extracts, mountain pepper, desert lime, Davidson plum, contributing further antioxidant support.

Retinisation

Expect an adjustment period of two to four weeks when starting: mild dryness or flaking is normal, not a reaction. Build up gradually rather than pushing through nightly use from day one.

Skin focused on firmness, fine lines, texture or uneven tone, and particularly good as a first retinol, given the gradual dual-conversion approach.

Not suitable

During pregnancy or while breastfeeding, in line with standard retinoid guidance.

Worth knowing

Contains tangerine and rosemary oils with declared limonene and linalool; fragrance-sensitive skin should patch test.

Evenings only. Start with a pea-sized amount two to three nights a week on clean, dry skin, building to nightly use as your skin settles.

Follow with moisturiser. Broad-spectrum SPF every morning is non-negotiable while using retinoids.

Use alongside

A gentle cleanse (Gentle Clean), moisturiser and daily SPF.

Keep apart from

Exfoliating acids and the Illuminating Polish on the same night, alternate nights instead. If skin runs sensitive, apply moisturiser first and the retinol over it to buffer.