Sleep Glycolic

The overnight shift

Glycolic acid is the smallest of the AHAs and the most studied: it loosens the bonds holding dulled, spent cells at the surface so they release evenly rather than cling. Overnight is its natural working window, when skin is not contending with sun, makeup or weather.

The slow release

The acid sits second on a deliberately short ingredient list, complexed with cyclodextrin, a sugar-derived carrier that meters it out gradually through the night, with partial neutralisation to temper the bite. Peel-level exfoliation, delivered at a pace skin can live with.

The support

Glycerin and propanediol hold water in a light emulsion base while the acid works, with Lespedeza capitata extract completing the formula.

Dull, rough or uneven skin that wants glow back on a schedule; experienced active users slotting real exfoliation between retinoid nights; and anyone who prefers their acids to work while nothing else is being asked of their skin.

Worth knowing

Like all alpha hydroxy acids, glycolic increases sun sensitivity: daily SPF is non-negotiable during use and for the week after. Not one to layer with retinoids or other acids on the same night. Fragrance-free.

Two or three evenings a week to begin, on clean, fully dry skin: smooth a few drops over face and neck, avoiding the eye area, and leave to work overnight. No need to rinse.

Build frequency as tolerance settles. A brief tingle on application is normal; persistent stinging is skin asking you to slow down.

Use alongside

The natural alternate to Crystal Retinal: acids one night, retinal the next, never both at once. A night cream such as Advanced Night Restore can follow once the serum has settled, and the morning after belongs to SPF, Melan 130 if pigmentation is part of the picture.