Balancing Cleansing Emulsion 200mL

Most cleansers work through detergent surfactants, which lift oil and debris but also strip some of the skin's own lipids in the process. This one works differently, and the ingredient order tells you how: the first four ingredients are oils and esters, and water sits fifth.

Oil dissolving oil

Sebum, sunscreen, makeup and airborne particulate are largely oil-soluble, which is why water alone does not shift them. Ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and C12-15 alkyl benzoate are lightweight esters that dissolve those materials on contact, without needing a detergent to do it.

Why it rinses clean

An oil that only dissolved oil would leave a film. The sucrose esters, sucrose laurate, stearate and palmitate, are non-ionic surfactants derived from sugar and fatty acids. Along with methyl glucose dioleate and polysorbate 20, they let the oil phase emulsify when water is added, turning the product milky so it rinses away with what it has lifted.

That emulsification step is what separates this from a pure cleansing oil or a balm.

Why sugar esters rather than detergents

Sucrose esters are non-ionic, meaning they carry no charge. Anionic surfactants such as sulfates carry a negative charge that interacts with skin proteins and lipids, which is the mechanism behind the tight, stripped feeling after cleansing. Non-ionic surfactants interact far less, so they clean with less disruption.

The supporting cast

Bisabolol, a component of chamomile, and oat kernel extract are both included for their calming properties. Phospholipids and glycerin offset the drying effect any cleansing step has. It is a short formula and every ingredient in it is doing an identifiable job.

Dry, sensitive or reactive skin, and anyone who finds foaming cleansers leave their skin feeling tight.

Particularly suited to removing sunscreen and makeup, which detergent cleansers often struggle with, and to anyone using retinoids or acids, where a non-stripping cleanser matters more than usual.

If you prefer the sensation of a foaming cleanser, this will feel unfamiliar. It does not lather.

Apply to dry skin and massage gently in circular motions. Add water to emulsify, then rinse thoroughly.

Applying to dry rather than damp skin matters. Water first prevents the oil phase from reaching what you are trying to remove.

Suitable morning and evening. Can be used as the first step of a double cleanse, or on its own.