Sodium DNA, which is the centre of the formula
Sodium DNA is salmon-derived DNA fragments, also known as polynucleotides. It appears fifth in the ingredient list, unusually high for an ingredient of this type.
The proposed mechanism is that these fragments act as a substrate and signalling material for fibroblasts, the cells in the dermis responsible for producing collagen and elastin. The nucleotides are not incorporated into your own DNA. They are broken down and their components made available to cells.
The injectable comparison, worth separating clearly
Polynucleotides have become well known in aesthetics as an injectable treatment, where a solution is placed directly into the dermis. There is a reasonable body of evidence there.
Topical is a different proposition entirely. DNA fragments are large molecules and the stratum corneum is structured to exclude them. Whether meaningful quantities of intact polynucleotide reach the dermis from a serum is not established, and the evidence supporting the injectable route does not transfer to the topical one.
ZO have commissioned a 24-week third-party study of 45 subjects on this formulation. That is real research and worth knowing about. It is also small, industry-funded, and measures appearance rather than confirmed dermal activity. We would rather point you to it than restate its conclusions as our own.
The firming complex
Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3 is a biomimetic peptide, studied for its effect on anchoring fibrils at the dermal-epidermal junction, the structural interface between the two layers. That junction flattens with age, which contributes to laxity.
Melilotus officinalis, sweet yellow clover, is used alongside it. ZO market this pairing as their ZCORE complex.
Retinyl palmitate
Position ten. This is a vitamin A ester and the mildest of the retinoids, requiring three enzymatic conversions before reaching retinoic acid, the active form.
That makes it gentle and slow, which suits a formula positioned as tolerable for sensitive areas. It is worth being aware of nonetheless: this is a vitamin A product, and if you already use a retinol serum you are layering two.
The antioxidant layer
Leontopodium alpinum, edelweiss, and marrubium vulgare, white horehound, both as plant cell cultures. ZO market these as their RRS2 complex. Both contain measurable antioxidant compounds. The stem cell framing carries more weight in marketing than in evidence.
Tocopheryl acetate is a vitamin E ester. Dextran is a polysaccharide holding water at the surface.
Colour and fragrance
Fragranced, with limonene declared as a recognised contact allergen. Ultramarines and Ext. Violet 2 are colourants, accounting for the serum's appearance rather than any effect on skin.
Lactose is present, though at cosmetic concentrations applied topically this is not relevant to lactose intolerance, which is a digestive matter.
