What "growth factor" means here
The five ingredients carrying an sh- prefix are the centre of this formula. The prefix denotes synthetic human: peptides with sequences matching human proteins, manufactured by fermentation. Nothing human-derived is present in the product.
In the body, growth factors are signalling proteins. They bind receptors on cell surfaces and instruct cells to divide, migrate or produce specific proteins. Fibroblasts in the dermis respond to certain growth factors by producing collagen and elastin, which is the rationale for using them topically.
The individual peptides correspond to well-characterised human proteins: sh-Oligopeptide-1 to epidermal growth factor, sh-Polypeptide-1 to basic fibroblast growth factor, sh-Polypeptide-11 to insulin-like growth factor 1.
The delivery question, stated plainly
This is the honest limitation of the entire growth factor category, and it applies to every brand.
Growth factors are large molecules, typically between 6,000 and 25,000 daltons. The stratum corneum is specifically structured to exclude molecules much above 500 daltons. Whether meaningful quantities of intact growth factor reach the fibroblasts they are intended to signal is not settled.
Formulators address this with delivery systems, and some studies report measurable outcomes. But the outcome measured is usually appearance rather than confirmed dermal activity, so a positive result does not by itself demonstrate the proposed mechanism.
ZO have commissioned a 12-week third-party study of 46 subjects on this formulation. That is real research and worth knowing about. It is also small, industry-funded, and appearance-based. We would rather point you to it than restate its conclusions as our own.
The neuropeptide
Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, often sold as Syn-Ake, is modelled on a component of temple viper venom. It is proposed to work at the neuromuscular junction, and like acetyl hexapeptide-8 it faces the same delivery question: it is water-soluble and the barrier is built to keep such molecules out.
The ferments
Lactobacillus ferment, lactobacillus/panax ginseng root ferment filtrate, and bacillus/folic acid ferment filtrate extract. Fermentation breaks large plant molecules into smaller fragments and generates new compounds, which is used both to improve penetration and to produce constituents not present in the raw material.
Cordyceps militaris mycelium extract is a fungal extract with documented antioxidant activity.
The supporting formula
Sodium hyaluronate and beta-glucan hold water. Hydrolysed sericin is a silk protein forming a light film at the surface. Phospholipids and lecithin support the barrier and assist delivery.
Scutellaria baicalensis, Chinese skullcap, and glycyrrhiza uralensis, licorice root, are both well-studied antioxidants. Licorice root also contains compounds that interact with tyrosinase, relevant to skin tone.
Acetyl glutamine and disodium acetyl glucosamine phosphate are amino acid and amino sugar derivatives supporting hydration and cell turnover.
Fragrance
This product is fragranced. Hexamethylindanopyran, terpineol and tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes are named fragrance components rather than declared allergens under the EU list, but they are fragrance ingredients and worth knowing about if you react to scented products.
