Hydrating Cleanser

Most cleansers described as hydrating are not, in any meaningful sense. Humectants added to a rinse-off product mostly go down the drain with it. What makes this formula different is worth understanding, because it is a real mechanism rather than a marketing position.

The surfactant system

Sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate are both mild synthetic detergents derived from coconut fatty acids. Isethionates in particular are known for producing a creamy, dense lather with markedly less protein and lipid disruption than sulfate surfactants.

There are no sulfates in this formula. That is the first reason it does not leave skin tight.

Why the humectants stay

Glycerin sits fourth in the list, and behind it are sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, sodium PCA, urea, trehalose and allantoin. Sodium PCA and urea are both components of the skin’s own natural moisturising factor, the internal mix of water-binding compounds within corneocytes.

The ingredient that makes this hold together is polyquaternium-51, a polymer designed to mimic the phosphorylcholine structure found in cell membranes. It has very high water-binding capacity and, being cationic, it is substantive to skin. It deposits during rinse-off rather than washing away, carrying some of the hydrating fraction with it.

The creamy texture

Glycol distearate is a pearlising agent, and it works alongside cetyl, myristyl and stearyl alcohols plus stearic and palmitic acids. These are fatty alcohols and fatty acids, emollient rather than drying, and entirely different from the volatile alcohols that concern people. They give the product its cream texture and leave a light emollient residue.

Allantoin

Included for its soothing properties. At higher concentrations allantoin is keratolytic, but at cleanser levels it is present as a calming agent rather than an exfoliant.

Fragrance and colour

Fragranced, with limonene and linalool declared separately as recognised contact allergens. Coloured with Red 33 and Yellow 6, both synthetic dyes. If you have reacted to fragranced products before, this is relevant.

Normal to dry skin, and anyone who finds foaming cleansers leave their skin feeling stripped but still wants lather.

Suits use alongside actives, since a cleanser that does not compromise the barrier matters more when the rest of your routine is doing the work.

Consider the Balancing Cleansing Emulsion instead if your skin is very dry or reactive, if you need to remove sunscreen or makeup thoroughly, or if you would rather avoid fragrance entirely.

Massage a small amount onto damp face and neck, then rinse thoroughly.

Suitable morning and evening, and daily use is fine. Avoid the eye area.