Panthenol

Panthenol is the alcohol form of pantothenic acid, vitamin B5. It is called provitamin B5 because it is not the vitamin itself: skin converts it to pantothenic acid after application.

How it works

Panthenol has two distinct actions, which is why it appears in such a wide range of products.

As a humectant, it binds water and draws it into the upper layers. It is a small molecule and penetrates the stratum corneum readily, so it hydrates within the layer rather than only at the surface.

Once converted to pantothenic acid, it becomes part of coenzyme A, a molecule central to lipid synthesis. Research associates topical panthenol with improved barrier function and with the appearance of faster recovery in compromised skin, which is why it appears in aftercare products following procedures.

Soothing

Panthenol has documented anti-inflammatory activity, and is used in products for irritated, sunburnt or post-procedure skin. This is a genuine effect rather than a claim carried over from its hydrating role.

D-panthenol and the two forms

Only the D form, dexpanthenol, is biologically active. The L form is not. Some suppliers provide a racemic mixture of both, which halves the active content at the same stated percentage.

INCI does not distinguish between them, so “Panthenol” on a label does not tell you which you have.

In formulation

Water-soluble, stable, and effective at low concentrations. Typically used between one and five percent. It is also common in haircare, where it binds water into the hair shaft.