P-Tiox

The peptide pair

Two heavily studied neuropeptides share the bill: acetyl hexapeptide-8 and a dipeptide modelled on a protein first identified in temple viper venom. Both work at the surface to soften how expression lines read, the vertical elevens, the forehead rows, the fans at the eye corners.

The supporting cast

5% niacinamide steadies tone and texture while gluconolactone, the gentlest of the exfoliating polyhydroxy acids, keeps the surface smooth enough for light to flatter it. Adenosine and phytic acid round out the smoothing agenda.

The finish

A weightless gel-serum that dries down clean and sits happily under moisturiser, SPF and makeup, which is exactly where a line-smoothing serum earns its keep.

Skin whose first complaint is expression lines rather than sagging or pigment; makeup wearers wanting a smoother canvas; and peptide devotees who would like the two most studied ones in a single bottle.

Worth knowing

Denatured alcohol gives the quick dry-down; very dry skin should follow promptly with moisturiser. Salicylic acid sits low on the list, worth knowing with an aspirin allergy. Fragrance-free.

Morning or evening on cleansed skin: one application over the face, concentrating on forehead, frown and eye-corner lines, before moisturiser.

Under makeup, give it a minute to set.

Use alongside

Vitamin C in the morning, C E Ferulic being the in-house partner, a retinal at night and SPF every day. It layers beneath all three without argument, and the pairing with a retinoid covers both the lines you make and the lines you keep.