Growth Factor Eye Serum

First, a clarification worth making

This product shares a name with ZO's Growth Factor Serum but not its central technology. The face serum contains five bioengineered growth factor peptides carrying the sh- prefix. This formula contains none of them.

What it does contain is targeted peptides, fermented extracts and botanicals. ZO describe the technology here as enzymatic and plant-derived, distinct from the human-comparable growth factors in the face serum. Both are legitimate formulations; they are not the same thing, and it is worth knowing which you are buying.

The two peptides

Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, commonly sold as Syn-Ake, is modelled on a component of temple viper venom. It is proposed to act at the neuromuscular junction to reduce the appearance of expression lines. As with all peptides of this type, the open question is delivery: it is water-soluble, and the barrier is built to exclude such molecules.

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 is used specifically in eye products, studied for effects on fluid accumulation and on the glycation of proteins in the under-eye area.

The circulation and puffiness layer

Hieracium pilosella, mouse-ear hawkweed, has traditional use as a diuretic and appears in eye formulations for fluid retention. Bellis perennis, common daisy, is used for tone and brightness.

Adenosine triphosphate is the cell's energy currency, included on the reasoning that cellular activity underpins everything else.

The ferments and botanicals

Lactobacillus ferment and lactobacillus/panax ginseng root ferment filtrate. Fermentation breaks larger plant molecules into smaller fragments and generates compounds not present in the raw material.

Scutellaria baicalensis, Chinese skullcap, and glycyrrhiza uralensis, licorice root, are both well-studied antioxidants. Angelica polymorpha sinensis is dong quai, long used in traditional Chinese medicine. Cordyceps militaris is a fungal extract with documented antioxidant activity.

Hydration and structure

Sodium acetylated hyaluronate is a modified hyaluronic acid, more lipophilic than the standard form and designed to sit on skin longer. Beta-glucan and hydrolysed sericin hold water and form a light film. Proline is an amino acid abundant in collagen, and acetyl tyrosine is a modified amino acid.

Lupin seed oil, wheat germ oil and ethyl linoleate provide fatty acids. Wheat germ oil is a notably rich natural source of vitamin E, alongside the tocopherol and sodium tocopheryl phosphate also present.

The immediate effect

Silica and silica silylate are light-diffusing particles that soften the appearance of fine lines on application. PVP and beeswax contribute to a smoothing film. This part of the effect is optical and washes off, which is worth understanding as distinct from anything happening over weeks.

Three things to know

Wheat germ oil is present, relevant if you have a wheat allergy.

Beeswax and silk protein are both animal-derived, so this is not vegan.

Bellis perennis is in the Asteraceae family, alongside ragweed, chamomile, marigold and arnica. If you react to any of those, this may cross-react.

The eye area concerned with expression lines, creasing and puffiness. The lightweight texture suits most skin, and it contains no retinoid, no acid and no alcohol.

That makes it considerably gentler than ZO's retinol eye product and a reasonable option during pregnancy, where retinoid-containing eye creams are not.

Not the right product if you have a wheat allergy, a known Asteraceae sensitivity, or avoid animal-derived ingredients.

Apply morning and evening to clean skin. Use the applicator to glide along the orbital bone, then pat gently until absorbed.

The applicator is cooling by design, which contributes to the immediate reduction in the appearance of puffiness. Storing it in the fridge enhances that effect if you find it helpful.

Do not apply to the eyelid or into the lash line.

Follow with sunscreen in the morning, extended properly around the eye area.

Use alongside

Your usual routine, applied first, with this as the final eye step.

Retinoid eye products, on alternate evenings rather than layered, if you use both.

Order

A lightweight serum goes before a heavier eye cream, not after.