Intense Eye Crème

Retinol, and more of it than the other eye products

Retinol appears at position thirteen in this formula. In ZO's Eye Brightening Crème it sits at forty-seven. INCI lists run in descending order of concentration, so the difference is substantial.

This is the more active of ZO's two retinol eye products, and it is aimed at texture and lines rather than at dark circles.

Retinol converts in the skin to retinoic acid, which binds retinoid receptors in the epidermis and dermis, influencing cell turnover and fibroblast activity.

Three peptides, doing different jobs

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 are usually sold together as Matrixyl 3000, one of the more studied peptide combinations in cosmetics. Tripeptide-1 is a matrikine, a fragment that signals to fibroblasts as though tissue repair were needed. Tetrapeptide-7 is studied for its effect on interleukin-6, an inflammatory mediator associated with matrix breakdown. The palmitoyl chains make both more lipophilic and better able to cross the barrier.

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 is the third, used specifically in eye products and studied for effects on fluid accumulation and on glycation, the cross-linking of collagen by sugars.

The immediate optical effect

Mica, titanium dioxide, tin oxide and polymethylsilsesquioxane/silica crosspolymer are light-diffusing particles. They scatter light rather than reflecting it directly, which softens the appearance of fine lines and crow's feet the moment the product is applied.

This part washes off. It is cosmetic rather than corrective, and worth understanding as distinct from anything the retinol and peptides do over weeks.

Lavender extract

Lavandula stoechas, Spanish lavender, present as an extract rather than an essential oil. Extracts contain far less of the volatile fragrance compounds than oils do, which matters for irritation. Notably, this product declares no fragrance allergens at all, unlike ZO's retinol serums.

The base

Soybean oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, linoleic and oleic acid, lecithin and phospholipids. A lipid-rich emollient base, which suits an area with few oil glands and matters more than usual with a retinoid in the formula.

Sodium lactate holds water and is a component of the skin's own natural moisturising factor.

One thing to note

Glycine soja oil is soybean-derived. Relevant if you have a soy allergy.

Unlike ZO's other eye product, this one is fragrance-free and contains no silk protein, so it is suitable for anyone avoiding animal-derived ingredients.

The eye area concerned with texture, fine lines and loss of elasticity. This is the more active of ZO's two retinol eye creams.

The absence of fragrance makes it a reasonable choice if you have reacted to scented eye products before.

Not suitable during pregnancy or breastfeeding, since it contains retinol.

If your main concern is dark circles rather than texture, the Eye Brightening Crème addresses pigment and circulation directly and is tinted. This one is aimed elsewhere.

If you cannot use a retinoid, the Growth Factor Eye Serum contains none.

Apply a small amount to the upper and lower eye area, morning and evening. Pat gently with your ring finger, working from the inner corner outward.

Do not apply to the eyelid or into the lash line.

If you are new to retinol near the eye, start every second or third evening and build up. The skin here is thinner than on the face and adjusts more slowly. Mild dryness or flaking in the first weeks is a common adjustment response.

Follow with broad-spectrum SPF in the morning, extended properly around the orbital area, which is frequently missed.

Keep apart

Other retinoids applied near the eye, including ZO's Eye Brightening Crème. Using both would be layering two retinol products on the thinnest skin on the face.

Exfoliating acids in the eye area.

Use alongside

Your usual facial routine, applied first, with this as the final step around the eye.

Daily SPF, extended to the orbital area.