Centella Asiatica

Centella asiatica, also called gotu kola or tiger grass, is a small marsh plant used in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine for centuries. It is among the best-evidenced botanicals in topical use, and unusually its cosmetic reputation rests on genuine pharmacological research rather than only on tradition.

The active constituents

Centella's effects are attributed to a group of triterpenoids: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Together these are often called centelloids or TECA, titrated extract of Centella asiatica.

Asiaticoside is the most studied, associated in research with increased collagen synthesis and with effects on fibroblast activity. Madecassoside has documented anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity.

The wound healing evidence

This is where centella's record is strongest. Standardised centella extracts have been studied in wound healing, in scar formation and in burns, with reasonably consistent findings, and TECA preparations are used medically in several countries.

That evidence base is why centella has become common in products for compromised, post-procedure and reactive skin rather than only in anti-ageing formulations.

Cica

The Korean beauty category known as cica products takes its name from centella, via cicatrisation, the medical term for wound closure. The naming reflects the ingredient's origin in wound care rather than in cosmetics.

What the label does not tell you

The usual botanical caveat, and it matters more here than most.

"Centella asiatica extract" tells you the plant. It does not tell you the extraction method, the solvent, or the concentration of the active triterpenoids, which varies enormously between suppliers.

The medical research uses standardised extracts with defined triterpenoid content. A cosmetic extract may contain a fraction of that. Some ingredient lists name the isolated compounds directly, madecassoside or asiaticoside, which is more informative than the whole-plant extract name.

Safety

Well tolerated topically, with contact allergy uncommon but documented. Oral centella has been associated with liver effects at high doses and prolonged use, which does not apply to topical cosmetic concentrations.

Given its pharmacological activity and limited pregnancy safety data, worth confirming with your doctor.