Two forms of hyaluronic acid
Sodium hyaluronate is the salt form, smaller and more stable than hyaluronic acid itself, holding water through hydrogen bonding along its chain.
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer is chemically cross-linked, forming a three-dimensional network rather than a linear chain. That structure holds water more persistently and forms a more durable film at the surface, so the hydration lasts longer through the day rather than dissipating.
Using both covers immediate and sustained hydration.
The xylitol complex, which is the interesting part
Xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol and xylitol appear together as a defined complex, and the approach differs from conventional humectants.
Rather than simply binding water at the surface, this complex is studied for effects on the skin's own water management: supporting the production of glycosaminoglycans, the water-holding molecules the skin makes itself, and influencing aquaporins, the channel proteins that move water between cells.
The distinction is between adding water and improving how skin handles the water it has. Whether that fully holds up in practice is less established than the surface humectant effect, but the concept is a genuine departure from ordinary hydration.
The peptides
Hexapeptide-11 is one of the two peptides in Alastin's TriHex Technology, studied for effects on cellular senescence and matrix protein expression.
Octapeptide-45 is studied for barrier support and for effects on inflammatory signalling.
Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate, sold as SNAP-8, is a neuropeptide modelled on a fragment of SNAP-25, a protein involved in releasing neurotransmitters at the neuromuscular junction. It is an eight amino acid extension of the same concept behind acetyl hexapeptide-8. As with all peptides of this type, delivery to the depth where it would act is the open question.
Hydration and barrier support
Tremella fuciformis is snow mushroom, a polysaccharide with substantial water-holding capacity. Betaine is a natural osmolyte, helping cells maintain water balance under stress. Magnesium chloride contributes to the same osmotic regulation.
Phospholipids, lecithin and sunflower seed oil supply barrier lipids. Tocopherol and ascorbyl palmitate provide antioxidant activity in the lipid phase.
Lactoferrin
A milk-derived protein with iron-binding and antimicrobial properties, studied for anti-inflammatory activity. Its presence means this product is not vegan, and it is relevant if you have a milk allergy.
What is not in it
No fragrance, no essential oils, no declared allergens, no alcohol, no acids and no retinoid. That is consistent across most of Alastin's range and worth knowing if you react to scented products.
