A lipid moisturiser rather than an occlusive one
Moisturisers work through three mechanisms: humectants draw water in, emollients smooth the surface, and occlusives form a barrier that slows evaporation.
This formula leans on the first two. There is no petrolatum, no heavy wax, no strongly occlusive ingredient. Instead it supplies the lipids the barrier is made from and lets the skin's own structure do the sealing.
Linoleic acid, soybean sterols and phospholipids are all barrier components. Caprylic/caprica triglyceride and the glyceryl esters provide emollience. The result is lighter than an occlusive cream and more suited to daily use across most skin types.
The oat complex
Three oat-derived ingredients, doing different things.
Potassium olivoyl hydrolysed oat protein sits at position nine, which is high. This is oat protein modified with an olive-derived fatty acid, making it amphiphilic. It works as a mild surfactant and film former, and the modification improves its compatibility with the barrier.
Oat kernel extract contributes avenanthramides, polyphenols largely unique to oats, studied for effects on inflammatory signalling and the itch response, alongside beta-glucan.
The peptides
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is a matrikine, a fragment that signals to fibroblasts as though repair were needed. It is one half of the Matrixyl 3000 pairing. Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 is studied for effects on matrix proteins.
Both sit at positions ten and eleven, which is high for peptides and suggests they are contributing rather than being present for the label.
A note on TriHex. Alastin's signature technology is hexapeptide-11 with acetyl tetrapeptide-2. Neither appears in this formula. The peptides here are different ones, and this is a peptide moisturiser rather than a TriHex product.
Hydration
Tremella fuciformis is snow mushroom, a polysaccharide-rich extract with substantial water-holding capacity, often compared to hyaluronic acid. Betaine is a natural osmolyte, helping cells maintain water balance under stress. Glycerin is the fourth ingredient.
The soothing and antioxidant layer
Bisabolol is the principal active constituent of German chamomile, with documented anti-inflammatory activity through effects on inflammatory mediators.
Rice bran extract contains ferulic acid, gamma-oryzanol and vitamin E compounds, all antioxidants. Rosemary leaf extract contains carnosic and rosmarinic acid, both well-studied antioxidants. Sunflower extract and tocopherol add to that layer.
What is not in it
No fragrance, no essential oils, no declared allergens, no alcohol, no acids and no retinoid.
Note that rosemary appears as a leaf extract rather than as rosemary essential oil. The extract carries the antioxidant compounds without the volatile fragrance components, which is why it does not trigger allergen declaration.
