Eight peptides, doing several different jobs
This is the most peptide-dense formula we stock, and the peptides are not variations on one idea.
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is a matrikine, modelled on a collagen fragment, signalling to fibroblasts as though repair were needed. Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 and palmitoyl tripeptide-5 are studied for effects on matrix proteins, tripeptide-5 specifically in relation to TGF-beta signalling.
Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine and palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminohydroxybutyrate are both studied for effects on the dermal-epidermal junction and on matrix components.
Acetyl hexapeptide-38 is the distinctive one. It is studied for effects on adipocytes, the cells that store fat, and specifically on their volume. Subcutaneous fat loss contributes significantly to facial hollowing with age, and this peptide is why Alastin describe some formulations in terms of volume rather than firmness alone.
Octapeptide-45 acts closer to the surface, on barrier function and inflammatory signalling.
Ornithine is an amino acid involved in polyamine synthesis and tissue metabolism.
Every palmitoyl peptide carries a fatty acid chain that improves compatibility with the lipid-rich barrier. That partly addresses the delivery question all peptides face, without resolving it.
A note on TriHex. Alastin's signature technology is hexapeptide-11 with acetyl tetrapeptide-2. Neither appears in this formula. The peptides here are different ones.
Niacinamide, high in the formula
Third position, which is unusually high. Niacinamide has documented effects through several unrelated routes: increased ceramide production supporting the barrier, interference with melanin transfer, and anti-inflammatory activity.
Two ceramides
Ceramide AP and Ceramide NP, both genuine ceramides rather than synthetic analogues. Ceramides make up roughly half the lipid content of the outer skin layer, holding cells together and limiting water loss. The letters describe the structure: NP is a non-hydroxy fatty acid on a phytosphingosine base, AP an alpha-hydroxy fatty acid on the same base.
Human skin contains a mixture of subtypes, so using two is closer to the natural composition than one. Phytosterols, glycolipids and phospholipids add to the lipid layer.
The botanicals
Magnolol is a compound from magnolia bark with documented antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity, present here as an isolated compound rather than an extract, which means a known quantity of a defined molecule.
Swertia chirata is a Himalayan plant used in traditional medicine, studied in cosmetics for effects on matrix proteins.
Ergothioneine is a sulfur-containing amino acid derivative from fungi, unusually stable and notable for having a dedicated human transporter protein.
Dunaliella salina is a carotenoid-rich microalga.
Hydration
Tremella fuciformis is snow mushroom, a polysaccharide with substantial water-holding capacity. Betaine is a natural osmolyte. Squalane and sunflower seed oil provide lipids.
What is not in it
No fragrance, no essential oils, no declared allergens, no alcohol, no acids and no retinoid.
