Regenerating Skin Nectar with TriHex Technology

Anhydrous, which explains the whole formula

There is no water in this product. The first ingredient is a silicone and the base is entirely silicones, esters and oils.

That is unusual for a peptide formula, since peptides are typically water-soluble, and it is a deliberate design choice with several consequences.

A waterless formula has no aqueous phase for microorganisms to grow in, which is why this product contains no conventional preservative system. On compromised or recently treated skin, that matters.

The silicone base also forms a light occlusive film. On skin that is losing water faster than usual, reducing that loss is one of the more useful things a product can do.

And silicones spread with very little friction, which is relevant on skin that is tender.

TriHex Technology

Alastin's patented peptide platform. The proposition is that supporting the skin's own clearance of damaged, fragmented collagen and elastin creates a better environment for new fibres to form.

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 carry it here. Tripeptide-1 is a matrikine, a fragment that signals to fibroblasts as though repair were needed. Both carry palmitoyl chains, which improve compatibility with the lipid-rich barrier and matter more than usual in a formula with no water phase.

Arnica

Arnica montana has centuries of topical use for bruising and swelling, attributed largely to sesquiterpene lactones including helenalin, which have documented anti-inflammatory activity.

Its presence here tells you something about the product's intended context. Arnica appears in formulations aimed at bruising, and there is reasonable evidence for arnica preparations in post-procedural swelling, though trials vary in quality.

Worth knowing that arnica is a recognised contact allergen and a sensitiser for a minority of people, particularly anyone allergic to the Asteraceae family, which includes ragweed, chamomile and marigold.

Naringenin

A flavonoid found in citrus, particularly grapefruit, present here as an isolated compound rather than an extract. Studied for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity, and for effects on the appearance of redness.

Being an isolated compound rather than a citrus oil, it carries none of the fragrance or phototoxicity considerations that citrus oils raise.

The antioxidant layer

Olive leaf extract contains oleuropein, a well-studied polyphenol. Tocopherol is vitamin E, ascorbyl palmitate is an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. Both are lipid-soluble, which is necessary in a formula with no water phase.

Dunaliella salina is a microalga rich in carotenoids including phytoene and phytofluene, colourless carotenoids studied for antioxidant activity.

Panthenyl triacetate

An oil-soluble derivative of panthenol, provitamin B5, converted to pantothenic acid in the skin. Panthenol is among the better-evidenced ingredients for barrier recovery and appears in pharmaceutical preparations for irritated skin in several countries.

The triacetate form is used here because plain panthenol is water-soluble and would not disperse in this base.

What is not in it

No fragrance, no essential oils, no declared allergens beyond the arnica consideration, no alcohol, no acids and no retinoid.

Skin around aesthetic procedures, and skin that is temporarily compromised or reactive.

Also usable as a daily peptide serum, though the silicone texture is distinctive and suits some people better than others.

Consider carefully if you have a known Asteraceae allergy, which covers ragweed, chamomile, marigold and arnica itself. If you have reacted to arnica before, this is not the product for you.

Also relevant if you have a soy allergy, since soybean oil is present at position five.

If you are using this around a procedure, follow your practitioner's direction on timing rather than general guidance. When a product can be applied after a treatment depends entirely on what the treatment was, and that is a clinical decision.

Apply to clean, dry skin morning and evening. A small amount is enough; the silicone base spreads readily.

Apply before other serums and moisturisers. Silicone films limit what can penetrate through them, so this goes early rather than last.

Around procedures, use as directed by your practitioner. Alastin position the product for use both before and after treatment, but the appropriate timing after any particular procedure is a clinical judgement.

Follow with sunscreen in the morning. Recently treated skin is more UV-sensitive than usual.

Use alongside

Your usual routine, with this applied first.

Sunscreen, which matters more than usual on skin that has been treated.

Keep apart

Retinoids and exfoliating acids while your skin is recovering from a procedure. Your practitioner will advise when to reintroduce them.

Order

Early. A silicone film applied last would block what comes after it.