Dual Action Scrub

The base is not water

PEG-6, synthetic wax and hydrogenated castor oil come first. Water sits eighth. This is a waterless formula, which does two useful things.

The acids are held in a non-aqueous base where they stay stable. And the wax base softens with the warmth of your hands and skin as you massage, so the product changes texture during use rather than staying constant.

Chemical exfoliation

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid, working at the surface to loosen the bonds between corneocytes. It is larger than glycolic acid, so it penetrates more slowly and is better tolerated. It also acts as a humectant, being a component of the skin's own natural moisturising factor.

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid and oil-soluble, so it can move into sebum within a pore rather than working only on the surface.

Both sit high in the list, at positions five and seven.

Physical exfoliation, described accurately

The particles are of three kinds, and it is worth being precise since ZO's own marketing is not.

Synthetic wax, candelilla wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil form biodegradable beads. These make up the bulk of the exfoliating particles and are spherical, so they abrade less than crushed shell or seed.

Polymethyl methacrylate and polyethylene are synthetic polymers. Both are plastics. Polyethylene microbeads specifically are the material the global microbead bans were written to address, and Australia has operated a voluntary phase-out since 2018.

ZO describe the exfoliation as eco-friendly. That is accurate for the wax beads and not accurate for the two polymers. We would rather tell you what is in it than repeat the claim.

Tea tree oil

Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, present at position thirteen. Well documented for antimicrobial activity, which is why it appears in products aimed at congestion.

Worth knowing it is also a recognised contact allergen, and oxidised tea tree oil is considerably more sensitising than fresh. It contributes to the scent alongside the separate fragrance.

The plant cell cultures

Leontopodium alpinum, edelweiss, and marrubium vulgare, white horehound, marketed by ZO as their RRS2 complex. Both contain measurable antioxidant compounds. The stem cell framing carries more weight in marketing than in evidence.

At the end of the list

Retinyl palmitate and ascorbic acid appear in the final positions. At that concentration in a rinse-off product with under a minute of contact, these are almost certainly present to protect the formula from oxidation rather than to act on skin. Their presence in an ingredient list does not make this a vitamin A or vitamin C product.

Ultramarines is the blue colourant.

Normal to oily skin concerned with texture and congestion. Suitable for face and body, which is unusual and makes it useful for chest, back and upper arms.

Not the right product if your skin is dry, sensitive or reactive, if you have rosacea, or if you have reacted to tea tree oil or fragrance before.

Also consider whether the plastic content matters to you. It is a legitimate reason to choose differently and we would rather you knew.

Massage a small amount onto damp face and neck, then rinse thoroughly. Avoid the eye area.

Pressure matters more than frequency. Physical exfoliants cause problems through force, not contact. Let the beads do the work with light circular motions rather than scrubbing.

Two to three times a week for most skin. Daily use is too much for nearly everyone, whatever their skin type.

Follow with broad-spectrum SPF in the morning. Hydroxy acids increase UV sensitivity even in a rinse-off product.

Keep apart

Other exfoliants on the same day, including acid pads, toners and exfoliating cleansers.

Retinoids in the same session. Use them on alternate evenings.

Use alongside

A hydrating serum and moisturiser afterwards.

Daily broad-spectrum SPF.